Southwind Extension District 4-H members from Allen, Bourbon, Neosho, and Woodson County’s competed Sunday, September 11 at the Kansas State Fair Photography Judging Contest in Hutchinson.

The intermediate team included Jackson Han, Austin Maycumber, Derek Jones, and Jeremiah Jones placed 8^th in the state.

The senior team included Abigail Meiwes, Grant Stockebrand, Josiah Stockebrand, and Judah Stockebrand placed 8^th in the state.

They were accompanied by their coach Terri Kretzmeier.

Resources and Action Steps for Suicide Prevention Month

By Clara Wicoff

Southwind Extension District

Two weeks ago, I attended an agent update in Manhattan where I was presented with some sobering statistics about youth depression and suicide in the state of Kansas. According to a 2022 report from the Kansas Communities That Care student survey, nearly one in three youth surveyed in Kansas responded “yes” when asked if they had ever seriously thought about killing themselves. Youth are not alone in this.

According to that same report, suicide is the ninth leading cause of death in our state (and the second leading cause of death for those aged 15 to 34).

With the month of September designated as Suicide Prevention Month and September 10^th designated as World Suicide Prevention Day, it is an appropriate time to review some of the wellbeing and mental health resources available to you as well as some of the action steps we can all take to help prevent suicide.

First of all, contact the 988 Suicide & Crisis Lifeline if you or someone you know is in need of immediate assistance. You can call or text 988 or chat at 988lifeline.org/chat. This free service is available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week in the United States.

Kansans working in agriculture may also benefit from the resources available at KansasAgStress.org. This webpage has a list of resources compiled to help Kansas farmers, ranchers, and their families with their wellbeing.

In addition to being aware of available resources, what else can we do to help prevent suicide this month and beyond?

According to the 988 Suicide & Crisis Lifeline, we can all take action by talking about suicide and following up with loved ones.

#BeThe1To is the Lifeline’s five-step message for communicating with someone who may be suicidal.

The five #BeThe1To steps are: Ask, Be There, Keep Them Safe, Help Them Connect, and Follow Up. Start by asking if they are thinking about suicide. Listen to their answers, while never promising to keep their thoughts of suicide a secret. Secondly, be there for them. Next, help keep them safe by putting time and distance between the individual and their chosen method for a suicide attempt. Help them connect with ongoing supports (such as the 988 Suicide & Crisis Lifeline as well as resources in their community). Finally, follow up to see how they are doing.

While this is a brief overview, you can learn more about these five crucial steps at bethe1to.com.

Sericea Lespedeza is labeled as a noxious weed by the state of Kansas.

This means landowners are required by law to control the weed. In the Southwind District, landowners and
producers continue to fight this weed on rangeland, pasture, and small acreages.

There are multiple herbicides and cultural practices that can help control sericea, but proper timing is
very important. Our district has experienced below average rainfall most of the summer, and producers that usually target sericea in June with Tricoplyr likely weren’t able to make their applications, or their applications may not have been effective. August and September offer a second chance at controlling this tough weed.
The month of August, and into early September offer a great chance at controlling sericea while it is actively blooming.

Targeting the plant while it blooms not only kills the top
growth of the weed, but it also prevents the plants from producing a viable seed.
As many landowners have figured out, sericea is a prolific seed producer. A single stem can produce upwards of 1500 seeds, equating to over 300 pounds of seed per acre in pure
stands of sericea. With this many seeds being added to the soil’s seedbank, killing off existing plants will only provide space for new seeds to germinate, so keeping this plant from producing
seed is vital in achieving good control and eradicating the weed species.

Herbicides containing metsulfuron are recommended while sericea is blooming.

Recommended rates for broadcast spraying commonly found herbicides are: 0.5 oz/acre Escort XP, 0.625 oz/acre Cimarron Plus, and 2.5 to 3 oz/acre Chaparral. All herbicides containing
metsulfuron should be mixe with a non–ionic surfactant (NIS).
For producers looking to spot spray sericea, a tank mix of Escort + a NIS can achieve good control: 1.0 oz Escort + 1 qt NIS in 100 gal water, or 5 grams Escort + 1.5 floz NIS in 5 gal water. Adding .5 fl oz PastureGard HL per gallon tank mix can increase control.
Burning sericea lespedeza in the fall is gaining interest across the state. Where herbicide applications can cost upwards of $20 per acre, burning pastures can cost around $0.20 per acre.

Burning sericea while it is blooming or developing its seed in late–August to mid–September can remove top growth, and prevent the plant from producing a viable seed.

Burning sericea can be a challenge for producers. In the Southwind district, tall fescue is the dominant species, and is actively growing in August and September. It is often stockpiled
for late fall and winter grazing. In these situations, burning is not recommended.

Burning is recommended in non–ag situations, native pastures, and in pure stands of sericea. If properly done, patches of pure stands of sericea can be burned in fescue pastures,
but the risk of the fire spreading is always there.

Burning also will cause scarification on the existing sericea seeds in the soil and cause them to germinate, often appearing to make the situation worse.

By Clara Wicoff

Southwind Extension District

Canning season is in full swing, which makes it the perfect time to review tips for safe home canning! According to the CDC, home canned vegetables are the top cause of botulism outbreaks. Botulism can be fatal, so it is essential to follow these tips from the K-State Research and Extension Rapid Response Center to ensure the safety of all who consume your home canned food! If you fail to follow these tips, you will be playing a dangerous game of food safety roulette.

First, it is of the utmost importance to use reliable, tested recipes from sources such as K-State Research and Extension, the National Center for Home Food Preservation, and the USDA Complete Guide to Home Canning. Using recipes from untested sources (such as internet websites, social media, and even old recipes from family members) can lead to a high risk of foodborne illness. Safe home canning starts with a reliable recipe which has been tested for safety.

Next, be sure to use the proper processing equipment. Only use a pressure canner for low-acid foods like vegetables, vegetable mixtures, red meats, wild game meats, poultry, seafood, and fish. High-acid foods (like fruits, sweet spreads, pickled products, tomatoes, salsa, and some tomato products) can be canned in a water bath canner.

When it comes to tomatoes, note that they are on the borderline between a low-acid and a high-acid food. Therefore, they must be acidified before being processed through either boiling water or pressure canning. To see specific acidification recommendations, visit bit.ly/AcidifyTomatoes.

You should also adjust for altitude. Failing to do this can cause your food to be underprocessed, which creates a risk of botulism. Recipes from reliable resources are often written for those processing at altitudes below 1,000 feet. Be aware of the altitude where you are processing food and what adjustments need to be made.

Other tips include ensuring you have adequate headspace in jars; not canning in an oven, dishwasher, or electric pressure cooker; following the proper processing time from tested recipes; only using common self-sealing lids once; and never modifying tested recipes to add any other ingredient.

Following these tips may just save your life! For more information, please contact Clara Wicoff, Nutrition, Food and Health Extension Agent, at [email protected] or 620-365-2242.

According to the drought monitor, all of the counties of the Southwind Extension District are in a moderate drought. Unfortunately, in looking at the drought forecast, it doesn’t look like we will be out of this pattern anytime soon either. If you haven’t been supplemental watering trees and shrubs, you need to be – especially any that were newly planted this spring.

Newly planted or young trees and shrubs often don’t survive the first year because of improper watering. Proper watering throughout the first growing season often means the difference between success and failure.

Water should be retained around the base of the newly planted trees by building a low berm just outside the planting hole. A weekly soaking to apply approximately 10 gallons of water should be sufficient to support spring or summer planted trees and shrubs on most sites.  Larger balled and burlaped or spade-dug trees will require more water. For every inch of trunk diameter greater than two inches, an additional ten gallon should be applied. In the absence of rainfall, continue watering newly planted deciduous trees and shrubs until their leaves fall. Evergreens should be watered until the soil freezes.

It is easy to overwater and keep the soil excessively wet and cause a different set of problems. Over watering can cause “wet wilt” which looks similar to wilt caused by dryness. When soil stays wet for an extended time, root damage can occur due to oxygen depletion. As a result, leaves wilt and do not recover, even if water is added.

During the second and third growing seasons after planting, supplemental water every 10 to 14 days if it doesn’t rain and soil moisture indicates a need. Check moisture with a trowel, rod, screwdriver or probe.

With established trees and shrubs, supplemental watering should be done during periods of drought. Trees that have been planted for three to five years will benefit from deep, regular watering.  But the interval can be extended to two to three weeks between applications.

Check the soil moisture and use it as a guide. Soak the soil to a minimum depth of 12 inches, out to and beyond the drip line, every three to four weeks if it doesn’t rain significantly. Avoid watering established trees at the base of the trunk because the absorbing roots are further out. Shrubs should also be watered so the soil is moistened to a depth of 8 to 12 inches every couple of weeks.

Water can be applied through a soaker hose or by allowing a pencil thin stream of water from a garden hose to soak the ground. Water lances or “root feeders” are not as suitable as applying to the surface because they can actually introduce the water deeper than where the surface feeding roots are located.

If you have trees or shrubs that are not looking good, give me a call and a home visit can be scheduled to evaluate the problem.

Krista Harding is a K-State Research and Extension Horticulture agent assigned to Southwind District and may be reached at [email protected] or 620-244-3826.

K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.