It is that time of year again – time to rake leaves and clean-up the landscape. Leaves have been rapidly falling from deciduous trees the past few days. The manual labor that comes with raking, bagging or burning leaves is good exercise and great way to get out of the house to enjoy the fall weather, but it isn’t the only choice you have.

Although a scattering of leaves won’t harm the lawn, the excessive cover prevents sunlight from reaching turfgrass plants. Turf left in this state for an extended period will be unable to make carbohydrates needed to carry it through the winter.

There are options for dealing with the fallen leaves other than bagging them up. Composting is a great way to handle the refuse. Vegetable gardens and flower beds thrive with the use of compost. The process is relatively simple. To begin, use a lawnmower with bagging attachment to collect leaves. Directly apply a 2-3 inch layer of leaves onto garden and till it in the ground. Repeat this process every couple of weeks until you run out of leaves or soil becomes too wet.

If you do not compost, you can mow leaves with a mulching mower and let shredded leaves filter into the turf canopy. This method will be most effective if you do it often enough that leaf litter doesn’t become too thick.

You may be wondering if this practice will be detrimental to the lawn in the long run. The answer is no. Research at Michigan State University in which they used a mulching mower to shred up to about one pound of leaves per square yard of lawn for five consecutive years, found no long-term effects of the shredded leaves on turf quality, thatch thickness, or soil test results.

Fall is also the recommended time to clean up the flower beds in the landscape by clear-cutting dead stems to help control insect and disease problems. However, with herbaceous perennials that have been pest free, you might want to consider leaving some to provide structure, form, and color to the winter landscape. For example, ornamental grasses can be attractive even during winter months. But those nearby structures should be cut to the ground because they can be a fire hazard. Perennials with evergreen or semi-evergreen foliage can provide color. Of course, some perennials are naturally messy after dormancy and should be cut back in the fall.

Irises are known for a couple of common problems: iris leaf spot and iris borer. Though both cause problems in the spring, now would be the time to start control measures. Dead and infected iris leaves and other garden debris should be removed from the iris bed this fall. By doing this it will significantly reduce iris problems next spring.

Garden chrysanthemums can be cut the plants back to 2 to 3 inches high. Some gardeners prefer to leave the top growth so that it provides some protection from fluctuating soil temperatures during the winter months. If you choose to cut the tops off, apply a layer of mulch over the top of the mums after the ground has frozen. Mums should not completely dry out during the winter. It may be necessary to water occasionally if sufficient rain or snow has not fallen.

Krista Harding is a K-State Research and Extension Agricultural agent assigned to Southwind District.  She may be reached at [email protected] or 620-244-3826.

K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

Strengthening communities: Grant writing workshop planned for November 8

Do you know how that playground equipment at the park down the street was purchased? Or the new sign leading visitors to a local landmark? How about initial money for a festival? In any community, chances are that someone, or a group of individuals, wrote a grant proposal and received funding to help with the project.

Individuals and community groups can learn more about writing successful grant proposals at a workshop planned in Fort Scott, KS in November. The workshop is presented by Nancy Daniels, a community vitality specialist with K-State Research and Extension and the author of many grant proposals.

The training will be held November 8, 2019 at the River Room Event Center, 3 West Oak Street in Fort Scott, KS from 9:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. and includes lunch. The cost to attend is $10.

Deadline to register is Nov. 1.

“This workshop is for everyone, whether they’ve never written a proposal before and have no idea where to start, to those who have experience but are looking for ways to improve their approach,” Daniels said. “The magic that happens in a local community when people find out they don’t have to wait to get something done, that they can do it themselves, is incredible.”

Participants also learn from each other, Daniels said, adding that even experienced grant writers pick up tips and are reenergized after coming together with peers in their communities.  Participants are encouraged to bring their grants or grant ideas to share.

Workshop topics include:

• Sources of data for community needs (where do you find the numbers to back up your request?);
• Where to find grants;
• The five common elements of a great grant proposal;
• Practicing the grant writing elements.More information and registration is available by contacting Carla Nemecek at the Southwind Extension District Iola Office, 620-365-2242 or email [email protected].

To view the event flier:

Grant workshop FlyerFS

Fall and spring are my favorite seasons. Finally, some cooler temperatures have arrived and it is actually feeling more like fall! I encourage you to get outside and enjoy the fall season. It is the perfect time to do some tasks around your landscape that will help next spring.

First, let’s talk lawn weeds. I know, they are probably the last thing on your mind since we are winding down the mowing season. Believe it or not, it is the ideal time to tackle those weeds. Not next spring when you fire the mower up again!

Cool season broadleaf weeds such as henbit, dandelions and chick weed all germinate in the cool moist periods of September and October. They overwinter as small plants, barely visible unless you get down close to the ground to look. Once warm weather arrives in the spring, the plants grow rapidly and flower.

Fall control is ideal for these cool season broadleaf weeds. The weeds are storing food in their roots and will send a leaf applied herbicide to their roots as well. The herbicides will translocate to the roots and will kill the plants from the roots up. These plants are also small and easily controlled right now.

There are several products on the market that are effective on these fall germinating weeds. Herbicides such as 2,4-D or combination products that contain 2,4-D, MCCP and Dicamba, sold under the trade names of Trimec, Weed-B-Gon, or Weed-Out, can be used. A product called Weed Free Zone is also an option. It contains the three active ingredients mentioned above plus carfentrazone.

Newly planted lawns should not be treated with any herbicide until the new grass seedlings have been mowed two or three times depending on the product. Read and follow the label directions closely.

Next, let’s talk flower bulbs. Bulbs are a good addition to any landscape or garden because they offer a variety of bloom color, flowering time, plant height, and shape. Now is the time to get those bulbs in the ground!

Bulbs can be planted in a variety of locations including around house foundations, under deciduous shrubs and trees, along borders, in perennial beds, and rock gardens. You can also plant them in containers and even on steep slopes.

When planted along a foundation, bulbs will add color in the early spring if planted in a grouping of twelve or more bulbs. If you have evergreen shrubs planted along a foundation, they will provide a nice background for planting of bulbs. Bulbs will “pop” with color in contrast to the green of the shrubs.

A border of bulbs planted along the edge of the lawn will add a splash of color to the lawn area. Or consider planting low growing bulbs around the edge of a flower bed to add interest. You can add them directly into a perennial bed. The bulbs will bloom in March, April and May before perennials start to grow. Make sure to locate the bulbs so the dying foliage will not be noticed.

Both spring and summer bulbs can be planted in portable containers. The nice thing about container plantings is their versatility. For spring bulbs, once bloom is past, the container can be moved to a location out of sight while the foliage matures. Summer bulbs will add color all summer long to areas such as a patio or deck.

Keep in mind that planting bulbs of one variety or color in mass will have greater visual impact. This will provide uniform color and texture that is pleasing to the eye. With bulbs such as tulips or daffodils, plant at least twelve bulbs of one variety in a grouping. Smaller bulbs should be planted in groups of fifty to have visual impact.

Take action now to have a beautiful, weed-free, colorful lawn next spring!

Krista Harding is a K-State Research and Extension Agricultural agent assigned to Southwind District. She may be reached at [email protected] or 620-244-3826.

MyMedicare.gov program is starting this fall to help Medicare beneficiaries manage personal Medicare benefits and service information. Registering with MyMedicare.gov gives you access to your personalized information at any time. Registering lets you:

• Check your Medicare information, such as your Medicare claims as soon as they are processed and important Medicare-related information specific to you.
• Find your eligibility, entitlement, and preventive service information.
• Check your health and prescription drug enrollment information.
• View your Part B deductible information.
• Manage your prescription drug list and other personal health information.
• Print an official Medicare card.
• Create an “On the Go Report” that allows you to print your health information to share with your healthcare providers.

Medicare uses the same information that the Social Security Administration (SSA) has on file for you (or the Railroad Retirement Board (RRB) if you get RRB benefits) to verify your information and set up your online account. To register online, you’ll:

• Enter your Medicare number (as it appears on your red, white, and blue Medicare card).
• Register with the same address that the SSA or RRB has on file for you. During Registration, you will be asked you to validate your address. This is an important step to protect your personal information, because Medicare may send you mail at this address that contains important personal account information.
• Create a username and password that you can remember and use to sign into MyMedicare.gov each time you visit.
• Provide information to reset your username or password if you forget it in the future.

Medicare will mail you a confirmation letter and send a confirmation email if you provided one during registration.

The security provided by MyMedicare.gov prevents others from illegally gathering data from or about you, keeping your personal information safe. Your MyMedicare.gov account may only be accessed by signing in with your own username and personalized password. You or your appointed Authorized Representative are the only people who should have this information.

Remember, you play an important role in protecting your personal information (including your Social Security number) from unlawful access. Always log out of your MyMedicare.gov account after you are finished with your session. Do not share your login information with anyone. Keep your username and password stored in a safe place.

Annual Medicare Open Enrollment is October 15^th– December 7^th, make an appointment with a Senior Health Insurance Counselor for Kansans (SHICK) for assistance in setting up your MyMedicare.gov account when reviewing Part D prescription and Advantage Plan options for 2020. If you have questions or would like to make an appointment at one of the Southwind Extension District offices (Fort Scott, Erie, Iola, and Yates Center), contact me at 620-223-3720 or [email protected].

Above normal rainfall this year meant one thing – the lawn mowers have never stopped running! Our fescue lawns did not go dormant this year and the crabgrass hasn’t slowed down either. You might be surprised at how much of your lawn is actually crabgrass and not fescue. If you are thinking about renovating your lawn, September is the time to do it. Renovating doesn’t have to be done by plowing under the current turf and starting from scratch. Instead, lawns can be thickened up by overseeding.

To start the overseeding process, mow the grass short (1-1.5 inches) and remove the clippings. This will make it easier to get good seed-soil contact and increase the amount of light that will reach the young seedlings. The success of overseeding is dependant on good seed-soil contact. Thatch can prevent the seed from reaching the soil and germinating. If the thatch layer is ¾ inch or more, use a sod cutter to remove it. A power rake can also be used to reduce a thatch layer.

Next, the soil should be prepared for the seed. Holes must be made into the soil for the seeds to fall into. A verticut machine can be used. It has solid vertical blades that can be set to cut furrows into the soil. Another option is to use a core aerator. This machine will punch holes into the soil and deposit the cores on the surface of the ground. Each hole will produce an excellent environment for seed germination and growth. Machines to do such work can often be rented, so check around.

Fertilizer should then be applied at the rate suggested by a soil test or a starter fertilizer should be used at the rate suggested on the bag.

Seeding is the next step. For overseeding, use half the amount needed compared to seeding bare ground. For tall fescue, the normal rate for bare seeding is 6 to 8 pounds per 1000 square feet so the overseeding rate would be 3 to 4 pounds per 1000 square feet. You don’t necessarily have to overseed with the same variety you planted before. The quality of a lawn by can be raised by overseeding with a fescue variety that has better growth habits. Many stores carry blends of several newer high-quality tall fescues.

Finally, water everything in and then keep the seedbed constantly moist to insure rapid germination. Frequent light waterings are better than deeper, infrequent watering as the seedlings become established.

Fertilize with a high nitrogen fertilizer again 4 to 6 weeks after seeding to keep plants growing well and to build up food reserves.

On a side note, many homeowners often want to overseed bare spots under trees, but have minimal luck. The turf will sprout as fall progresses and will get established by winter. It continues to look good going into spring. However, the next summer it begins to die out again – despite any care it is given.

In many cases, this is due to too much shade or the type of turf planted isn’t a good fit for the location. Tall fescue is the only widely used lawn turf in Kansas that can survive some shade. All other cool and warm season turfs need more sunlight.

Instead of establishing grass under trees, consider underplanting the tree with shade tolerant ornamental plants. Examples include ground covers such as vinca minor vines, Boston ivy or liriope, or plants such as hostas or hardy ferns.

Krista Harding is a K-State Research and Extension agent assigned to Southwind District. She may be reached at [email protected] or 620-244-3826.

K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.